On the way to Agastyakootam, I am now here at ‘Ponkaalappaara’, just covered half of the distance from the base camp at Athirumala. It is coincidental reach ‘Ponkaalappaara’ in the same day, when ‘Aattukaal ponkaala’ is celebrating. Time is now at 9’O clock. But, the peak not allowing sunrays to reach it’s Western slopes. Fog can’t reach directly to the top, so climbing through the sides. About 3KM is remaining from here to the mountain tip.
As the poet recites;
Oru kaatham,
Oru kaathameyullu mukalilethaan
But, 22KM yesterday and 3KM today covered by us is comparatively easier when considering the remaining distance. From ‘Ponkaalappaara’ the way seems to be more difficult. It will be a strained experience to reach on the top through the slopes and between the rocks. The peak itself is a huge rock. A very little portion only can see from here to the top with trees or grass. The whole other part is like a black blanket.
The view of ‘Agasthyakoodam’, from Athirumala in the early morning was very attractive. It looks like a downward placed coconut shell. Clouds trapped by the peak are like its cap. The ‘morning star’- ‘Sukra’ just above on the sky seems it can catch if raise the hand standing on the top.
Agasthyakoodam is a holy place for both Hindus & Budhas. Budhists considering this place as Bodhisathwa Avalokitheswara’s. As in Hindu faith this place is connected with Agasthya.
Accoding to Hindu Puranas, when at the time, the union of Siva and Parvathy is going to happen on Kailasa, all the living beings started their movements towards the northern side to take part in the occasion. Weight of the earth became imbalanced due this gathering. Devas requested the Sage, Agasthya, to go to the southern end and he reached here at ‘Agasthyakooda’ at last. Using the unique powers of a sage, he maintained the balanced condition of the earth. Thus the living things escaped from a total destruction. This is the legend why sage Agasthya is reached here.
Agasthyakoodam is the second highest peak in South India . It is located in Agasthya Forest Biosphere Reserve. So, required prior permission from the forest authority to visit here. In every year the pilgrimage starts on the day of Makaravilakku and ends with Sivarathry.
We get the pass allotting the date, Feb. 18 and in the same day morning at about 9, reported to the forest office at Bonacaud to start the journey. After checking the luggage we started at 9.50. Ratheesh, the guide, accompanied us up to the second camp at ‘Lathimutta’, 2 KM away from the first. Five camps are there keeping a distance of 2 KM each other. Third camp is ‘Karamanayar’, fourth ‘Vazapaithiyar’ and the fifth ‘Attayar’. After the fifth, the sixth one- Athirumala is very distant.
From the second camp the way is dividing in to two directions. One is going near the waterfall ‘Bonafalls’. Unfortunately, due to the threat of elephants the passengers are not allowed in this way. We continued through the second.
In every camp guides are camping in tents. Many streams are flowing with crystal clear water through the forest. Soon dipping legs into it, sweet cold will crawl up to the body. We collected water in bottles. Mist appeared over the bottle as it is taken from the fridge.
Up to camp-5 Attayaar, the way is going through the shadows of big trees having the height to touch the sky. Pebbles and branches of some trees were covered with lichens. Some big trees were fallen and lying cross the way. In many places we can see some stones that spread over with turmeric powder. These stones have no particular shape of any God. You can consider it as your favorite God or Goddess and pray. These are indications of human mind when his way become struggled he depending the unique power.
After Attayaar the place with grassland is known as ‘Ezhumatakkam Theri’. There a very chance to see the herd of elephants. So, two guides followed us through the land. In the absence of trees, sun drained our bottles. But, after a short ‘thirst’ walk, a small stream found.
‘Muttitichan Theri’ is truly meaningful by it’s name. Knee will hit on the chest while climbing the big hill through its almost perpendicular slope. Dense forest here does not allow much sunlight to the ground. In many places we saw the slipped markings made by elephants.
From Attayaar the journey was continued by forming a group because of the chance to see animals. While climbing Muttitichan Theri, those who are going ahead will wait for the followers after a short walk, then continue the next step. During this rest, topics about forest and nature will came in the talk.
After a long walk of 7 hrs we reached in the base camp-‘Athirumala’. There ‘Potiyam Eco Development Society’ is conducting a canteen. Hot black tea or coffee with ‘Baji’ was ready for us at the time. But, price is comparatively higher. To sleep in the dormitory, mat is also available from here on rent. Break fast will be either ‘Uppuma’ or ‘Poori’. Lunch is ‘Oon’. In the evening-‘Kanhi’. All the facilities are available only at season.
A small stream is flowing near the dormitory just below it. One side of the stream is dense forest, other side a grass land. We took bath in the evening. While dipping, fear about animals filled our minds. That became true in the next evening.
Next day, early in the morning we were ready to go for the mountaining. After 1hr journey through the shadows we reached at ‘Ponkaalappaara’. At this journey, it is better to store more water from the base camp itself, because, no water avail us drinkable thereafter.
At ‘Urulukuzhichaan paara’ we saw pits in the shape of a traditional grinder. It believes that Agastya used these to grind herbs. In two places rope help us to climb on rocks. Some where the way is leading through small trees. There I expect a very chance for a honey comb because we happened to see so many bees and felt the fragrance of honey. A small bird, like a sparrow, gave me a pose to take a snap.
At last we reached on the tip at 11.15. The 2nd highest peak of South India is under my foot. We are now standing at a height of 1890m. Sky is too near to touch. Not much effort needs to catch the stars. In a clear climate, ‘Thirunelveli’ at Tamilnadu can see from here. We couldn’t see all the surroundings clearly. Mist faded our eyes often.
A small temple with a ‘little’ Agastya on black stone is also on the top. Pilgrims can itself do the Poojaa. It is one of the rare temple in the world having no priests. Some ‘Tamils’ gave him ‘Abhisheka’ with honey, bhasma, kalabha, etc.
Spending 2 more hours on the top, we get downed from there. The same night also, we seek shelter at Athirumala dormitory. In the 3rd day at 11.15 we reached back at “Bonacaud’. Signed there, indicating the completion of our trip.
They didn’t check the luggage then. If they did so; how can they find the precious scenes and experiences we theft from there and keeping safely in our minds!!